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Behind The Veil

The Veil is among one of the most popular breweries in the state of Virginia. People from all over travel to The Veil just to wait in line (typically two hours will get you near the front door prior to opening) on “can day Tuesdays”. The Veil beers have received high marks as to date. My personal favorites from the brewery are the IdontwanttoBU and Master Shredder. I still need to take a pilgrimage over to the brewery especially when they have their double double releases. I wanted to share an awesome Q&A that Alix Bryan from CBS 6 threw together several months ago. Hope you enjoyed it as much as I did!

In the monstrous backroom of the beautifully restored building at 1301 Roseneath Road, Matt Tarpey, head brewer and co-owner of The Veil,  cuts a stark shape among towering tanks and stacks of cans to be filled.

His vision has taken shape over the past year – from decorating to logo and liquids — and soon Richmond gets to sample the concoctions of a man whose brewing pedigree is lauded by beer aficionados.

A look at The Veil brewery

“He’s just so authentic,” said co-owner Dustin Durrance, who had not tried Matt’s beer before. “It’s not like I was sitting around drinking his homebrew, we just believed in him.”

“I was relieved,” he said of the first batch they tasted.

The 11,000 square foot building, accessorized with a parking lot of the same size, started as the offices for a Coca-Cola plant, and then became Unity Baptist Church.

Don’t expect cornhole, growler fills, games, trivia nights, or televisions at The Veil. Do expect people who want to talk about beer and give you really good, high gravity products. In the first year, Tarpey hopes to produce around 3,000 barrels; an American barrel of beer is 31 gallons.

For perspective, Tarpey said that Hardywood produced about 16,000 barrels last year.

Are you from Richmond?

MT: I was born and raised in Rhode Island, and moved to Chesapeake, Va. at age 12 and spent the majority of my life in Virginia. Moved away in late 2011 to New England and I had been there until May 2015.

Why Richmond for a brewery?

A lot of my business partners are from Richmond. I’ve always loved Richmond. We all felt that the project would do better in Richmond than in Hampton Roads. It’s centrally located and it is just has a really cool food and beverage scene; we thought Richmond was the best fit for us.

I’ve heard that you have brewed at spots which have some of the most sought-after beers in the world.

I have WORKED at some of the most sought after places. I started at O’Connor in Norfolk, as a shift brewer. Then I moved to Portsmouth Brewery in New Hampshire, a well-known brew pub in New England, in 2012. I was a shift brewer there for just over a year.

Then I moved over to The Alchmeist, in Vermont, who makes Heady Topper , a world famous double IPA – I was a shift brewer brewing Heady Topper.  That’s the only beer they brew. Then after that, I was the direct assistant brewer to Sean Hill at Hill Farmstead in Vermont, for just under two years. And for the last three out of four, Hill Farmstead has been voted the best brewery in the world. And then I have also done two apprenticeships with Jean Van Roy at Cantillon in Brussels, Belgium (also considered one of the best in the world.)

The Veil was originally supposed to open in November 2015, what happened?

A look at The Veil brewery

It takes a long time when you completely gut a building down to the four walls of the supporting columns, and raise the roof in one-third of the building and have to replace all the electrical in the entire building; replace all the plumbing for the entire building. You cut out the entire floor. That’s just a lot of work.

Demolition started in August 2015 and wrapped up in April 2016 – less than 10 months. That’s actually pretty impressive considering we gutted this building; considering we cut out the wall for the garage doors. It was just the woes of construction.

They always say whenever you plan on your project being complete, add six months to it. Whatever you think your budget is going to be double it. That was absolutely true for us.

The Veil’s namesake is connected to the brewing process, correct?

It has something to do with the spontaneous fermentation project of this brewery. We are going to do basically a lambic beer but it has to be from Belgium to call it lambic.

When I studied at Cantillon in Belgium to learn how to brew and learn more about the history and the process of lambic beer, I was one of two or three Americans to have ever studied under Jean who is the fifth generation brewer there.

The Veil logo that will go on local taps

It was my first time in Belgium and it was the first day I was walking around with Jean, it was early in the morning, 8 a.m., and we were walking around the barrel storage facility talking about spontaneous fermentation.

And through that process there is a protein-based membrane that grows on top of the beer that grows on top of the beer – almost like when you leave your pudding out too long –but not the same process, just for a visual. So we were talking about pellicles and we started talking about natural wines, which also undergo spontaneous fermentation, and Jean has a lot of friends in Italy that are natural winemakers and he told me that his friends in Italy call pellicles “the veil.”

That moment was very special and I just remembered it. You know how in a cartoon, someone says something powerful, and everything in the world stops….that’s how it was for me.

I didn’t know what the significance was for me or why it spoke to me at the time. It just spoke to me.

My business partners asked what I wanted to call it and I said The Veil. It’s not Richmond Brewing Company, Scott’s Additon Brewing. It has meaning, it has passion, it has heart. But it is also kind of catchy and dark and mysterious…it’s easy to say.

We have Master Shredder, which is a flagship beer for us, which is a wheat-based IPA, it’s 5.5%. It’s just amazing, aromatics – very citrus forward, definitely on the orange side. Not bitterness, no malt presence – just a clean, easy drinker but tons of aroma and flavor. Very hoppy but not bitter.

The second one is another flagship for us, it is called Crucial Taunt. It’s 8%, a double IPA. Again very citrus forward, no bitterness, almost no detection of the alcohol. It is very well hidden. It’s very crisp and really nice citruses’.

We have a very limited release Dull Fangs that is kind of a one off that we may never make again. It’s an IPA with Southern Hemisphere hops – Galaxy from Australia and Nelson Sauvin from New Zealand and we also added organic grapefruit to it.

The fourth beer we have is our anniversary beer, called Sleeping Forever, it is a 13% imperial stout and it is very-full bodied, not too acrid, it is very smooth, a little sweet but not so much sweetness that you can’t drink more than six ounces.

It’s just a very dark, devastating, delicious beer.

We are going to mainly focus on IPA. We will have at all times two to four IPAs.

The chocolate milk stout will be a flagship but may not be available at times.

What can people expect when they visit The Veil?

"Snakeskin" bathroom

A unique experience, definitely in terms of aesthetic of the tasting room. A different experience, I want people to recognize – not saying that the other people are not quality focused – but I want to show people how quality focused were are and how much we care about the quality beer and product.

The tasting room has turned out amazing. The aesthetics are beautiful, and modern and in my opinion unlike any other tasting room in the area. There is lounge seating, friendly staff clearly designated as being staff members. Just a different experience that I think everyone is going to love, or at least appreciate.

Do you have any spring beers for people to get excited about?

I don’t have any beers that will be brewed because it is a certain season. That is the beauty of us. We are not working with larger distributors. We are working with a new distributor that is quality focused that has given us the control. We are not limited by “hey it’s pumpkin beer season, brew a pumpkin beer.”

It’s brew whatever we want when we want and that’s how we like it.

We have 16 taps but will probably never have 16 beers on at any time but we wanted to have the availability to do so. On average we will have between five and eight, maybe 10. Later on if we have vintage beers, or when our spontaneous fermentation is ready…

A look at The Veil brewery

This way we have the capability to double up if there is a ton of people in the tasting room.

One of the taps is a CO2 purge because we are going to do limited amounts of crowlers, which is a 32oz. one use can that you fill like a growler. So we are going to do limited amounts of that on a pre-fill basis. I don’t want to take away from someone’s experience at the tasting room.

We also have a filtered water tap, I have been to a lot of establishments, not just to specify breweries, but I will go to get a glass of water and they grab a tepid pint glass and fill it from the hand sink under the bar and then I have this tepid tasting water in a warm glass and it impacts my palette when I am trying to have a beer and it also is a poor presentation, in my opinion, so it is always clean, crisp and flavorless – with a good presentation.

Then we have a nitro draft that we are working with Lamplighter on, so we will always have nitro coffee cold brew on draft.

 

What do you love about beer and what is your favorite variety?

What I love about beer is that it is a casual beverage. I consider it the working class wine. It can be just as complex if not more complex, it can be just as fine, if not more fine – in my opinion. But it can be so straightforward.

It can be pretentious but we are doing our best not to make it pretentious.

We don’t want to make the best beer in the world, we are just trying to make the best beer we can.

Beer is a very social beverage. You drink beer with friends and family. Nine times out of 10 you have a beer with someone and you want to talk. It’s a social beverage.

My favorite type of beer are traditional lambics. That is actually a reason I doing the spontaneous fermentation project, not just because I think it will be cool for Richmond – because I do – but a big reason is just so I can drink. I’m dead serious. It’s probably 90%.

I said that was the last question but I lied. I always do that. I really always have more questions. How did you get the internship with in Belgium?

I met him at a festival in Massachusetts and I just walked up to him and told him how much I loved his products and how much I loved his brand and that I was a brewer genuinely interested in learning more about spontaneous fermentation.

And I just asked him if I came over there if he would accept me as an intern and it’s funny, on my first day there, he said to me “you know Matt, there are hundreds and hundreds of people who ask me to do what you are doing – over the phone, through email, Facebook – and every single time I tell them no. I have no idea why I said yes to you, but you are always welcome here. ‘

That was very powerful to me, and that is why I went back a second time. I am going back for a third time in December. Pay my dues, and show my respect for the history.

——–

Thanks to my buddy, Dylan, for the find as well as for sharing some incredible beers from The Veil!

One comment on “Behind The Veil

  1. beerenitynowdoug
    November 23, 2016

    I must try!!!

    Like

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This entry was posted on August 9, 2016 by in Beer.

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